The Millers Do Italy Family fun in Rome and Sorrento tag:travellerspoint.com,2006-06-14:/blog/?domain=the-millers 2006-07-10T15:15:25Z elefantstn img/travel-blog-feed.png Cucina Toscana tag:travellerspoint.com,2006-07-10:/blog/?domain=the-millers&thisblog_entryid=18&entryid=16655 2006-07-10T15:15:25Z 2006-07-10T15:15:25Z Today's big plan was to visit the Bronze Age remains being excavated on Monte Cetona, southwest of here in Tuscany, but on arrival (and after requesting directions halfway), we found that the museum and the welcome center were both closed Mondays. Not all was lost, however, as we had a great day driving around the Tuscan countryside and a phenomenal lunch. First stop (for the aforementioned directions) was in San Casciano dei Bagni, a town centered on the healing mineral ... Today's big plan was to visit the Bronze Age remains being excavated on Monte Cetona, southwest of here in Tuscany, but on arrival (and after requesting directions halfway), we found that the museum and the welcome center were both closed Mondays. Not all was lost, however, as we had a great day driving around the Tuscan countryside and a phenomenal lunch.

First stop (for the aforementioned directions) was in San Casciano dei Bagni, a town centered on the healing mineral baths inside. Here's Julie and I on the main piazza, overlooking the surrounding farmland:

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After finding what we were looking for but being disappointed in its closure, we dropped down the mountain from Monte Cetona to the town of Cetona, on a smaller hill below. There we found a small enoteca called Spirito Di...Vino (a play on words for "divine spirit" and "spirit of wine"), with a sign noting that they were open for lunch today. It turned out to be a great discovery, as the food was fantastic. What follows is a small selection of what we had for lunch.

Fiori di Zucca alla Parmigiana - squash blossoms stuffed with cheese, fried, and baked with tomato sauce:

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Prosciutto e Melone - prosciutto and melon:

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Ribollita - Tuscan vegetable soup, with zucchine, greens, cabbage, beans, potatoes, etc., served on thin toasted bread:

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Creme Caramel - egg custard with orange zest:

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Tiramisu - self-explanatory:

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Torta di Mele - apple torte:

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After all that, a great Cetonan red wine, and some coffee, we wandered back up the hill to the car, snapped a picture of Julie, and headed home to finangle our way to the correct train tickets. Tomorrow, hopefully, a safe and efficient flight.

julie_cetona.jpg

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]]> Rough Guide to Tuscany and Umbria tag:travellerspoint.com,2006-07-09:/blog/?domain=the-millers&thisblog_entryid=17&entryid=16555 2006-07-09T16:00:37Z 2006-07-09T16:00:37Z The four Millers who returned home yesterday had a brutal 26 hour long trip, marked by a five and a half hour delay at the airport in Naples and hours spent waiting through New York traffic. Julie and I, however, have had better luck. Mrs. Toll, our former high school Latin teacher, retired to Moiano, just outside Chiusi, in Umbria, where we're spending the weekend and tomorrow in advance of our Tuesday flight home. Last night after our arrival ... The four Millers who returned home yesterday had a brutal 26 hour long trip, marked by a five and a half hour delay at the airport in Naples and hours spent waiting through New York traffic.

Julie and I, however, have had better luck. Mrs. Toll, our former high school Latin teacher, retired to Moiano, just outside Chiusi, in Umbria, where we're spending the weekend and tomorrow in advance of our Tuesday flight home. Last night after our arrival by train here, we ate some dinner here then went for a drive to Montepulciano, a very pretty hill town across the border into Tuscany, where we walked around, admired the views, and had coffee and pastries in a cafe that looked hundreds of feet down to the countryside below. On the way back down, Julie snapped this view of the Bell-Ringer:

montepulciano.jpg

Today, aided by Mrs. Toll's expert advice, we toured the battlefield around nearby Lake Trasimeno, where Hannibal ensnared the Roman army in 217 BC and slaughtered 15,000 of them. From up above, it's easy to see how the Romans were trapped by the hills surrounding the lake with no escape.

At lunch we drove up to Cortona in Tuscany, where Julie posed on the steps of the piazza:

julie_cortona.jpg

We ate lunch at an enoteca in town, where we ordered a mixed plate of salumi and cheese, consisting of prosciutto, cinghiale (wild boar) prosciutto, finochiona (fennel-seed salami), cinghiale salami, deer salami, young pecorino, old pecorino, artichoke hearts, fresh tomatoes, and toasted bread drizzled with white truffle olive oil, all washed down with a beautiful red Tuscan table wine. The establishment's proprietor gave us (between drags from her cigarette, under her 'no smoking' sign) her disdainful take on the ritzier trattorias up the street (9 euro salads! shameful) and the southern Italian olive oil (nice beaches, but they don't know oil) they allegedly pass off as Tuscan.

On the way home, a detour through some of the prettier countryside outside the Toll estate:

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Tonight, Italy-France. Tomorrow, (hopefully) Gubbio and the long trip home.

Rough Guide to Tuscany and Umbria remains copyright of the author elefantstn, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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]]> Pozzuoli tag:travellerspoint.com,2006-07-09:/blog/?domain=the-millers&thisblog_entryid=16&entryid=16530 2006-07-09T08:43:00Z 2006-07-09T08:43:00Z Friday we planned a trip to the acropolis at Cuma, the first Greek settlement on mainland Italy. Mother nature, however, intervened, with a torrential downpour accompanied by heavy thunder and lightning making our decision to head for home an easy one. But whereas the decision was easy, the trip itself was not -- flooding caused our Metropolitana train to abandon its trip to the center of Naples, forcing us to walk to a different train line for a ... Friday we planned a trip to the acropolis at Cuma, the first Greek settlement on mainland Italy. Mother nature, however, intervened, with a torrential downpour accompanied by heavy thunder and lightning making our decision to head for home an easy one. But whereas the decision was easy, the trip itself was not -- flooding caused our Metropolitana train to abandon its trip to the center of Naples, forcing us to walk to a different train line for a short trip, then to walk the rest of the way into Garibaldi station. By the time we were back in Piano di Sorrento, however, the skies had cleared, and the temperatures had dropped precipitously to a frigid 75 degrees.

mom_bundled.jpg

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]]> Amalfi tag:travellerspoint.com,2006-07-09:/blog/?domain=the-millers&thisblog_entryid=15&entryid=16528 2006-07-09T08:39:21Z 2006-07-09T08:39:21Z Thursday we caught the boat around the Sorrentine peninsula down to Amalfi, a far less nerve-wracking mode of transportation than the bus ride on the harrowing Amalfi Drive. Amalfi itself is a pretty town, but very heavily touristed, to the point of being nearly an amusement park on summer days. After half an hour of wandering and some four-euro gelati, we were ready to head back home. On our return to Sorrento, we spent some more time taking in ... Thursday we caught the boat around the Sorrentine peninsula down to Amalfi, a far less nerve-wracking mode of transportation than the bus ride on the harrowing Amalfi Drive. Amalfi itself is a pretty town, but very heavily touristed, to the point of being nearly an amusement park on summer days. After half an hour of wandering and some four-euro gelati, we were ready to head back home.

amalfi.jpg

On our return to Sorrento, we spent some more time taking in the city while waiting for dinner time, then grabbed a prime table at Trattoria da Emilia on the Marina Grande, favorite haunt of Sophia Loren while filming Pane, Amore, e... Allison ordered what was no doubt her favorite dish, Pesce del Golfo, a selection of the freshest fish right out of the bay, fried up and served angry.

allie_dinner.jpg

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]]> Paestum tag:travellerspoint.com,2006-07-09:/blog/?domain=the-millers&thisblog_entryid=14&entryid=16525 2006-07-09T08:34:45Z 2006-07-09T08:34:45Z Wednesday saw us navigate a little maze of Italian transportation connections to head south to Paestum, one of the original Greek colonies on mainland Italy. Built about five centuries before the birth of Christ, Paestum's main attractions are its three huge Greek temples, which rival anything still standing in Greece itself. Less famous but no less beautiful are the tomb paintings from the area, including this one of The Diver, symbolizing the plunge from this world into the next: ... Wednesday saw us navigate a little maze of Italian transportation connections to head south to Paestum, one of the original Greek colonies on mainland Italy. Built about five centuries before the birth of Christ, Paestum's main attractions are its three huge Greek temples, which rival anything still standing in Greece itself.

josh_paestum.jpg

Less famous but no less beautiful are the tomb paintings from the area, including this one of The Diver, symbolizing the plunge from this world into the next:

diver_paestum.jpg

Paestum remains copyright of the author elefantstn, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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]]> Sorrento tag:travellerspoint.com,2006-07-09:/blog/?domain=the-millers&thisblog_entryid=13&entryid=16523 2006-07-09T08:30:52Z 2006-07-09T08:30:52Z Tuesday we took it easy, dropping down just two stops on the Circumvesuviana to the port town of Sorrento for some shopping, some eating, and some sightseeing. Here Debra and Allison eat some phenomenal Campanian apricots, with Vesuvius in the background: ... Tuesday we took it easy, dropping down just two stops on the Circumvesuviana to the port town of Sorrento for some shopping, some eating, and some sightseeing.

Here Debra and Allison eat some phenomenal Campanian apricots, with Vesuvius in the background:

lunch_sorrento.jpg

Sorrento remains copyright of the author elefantstn, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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]]> Herculaneum and Naples tag:travellerspoint.com,2006-07-09:/blog/?domain=the-millers&thisblog_entryid=12&entryid=16521 2006-07-09T08:28:09Z 2006-07-09T08:28:09Z Monday saw us again head north around the bay on the Circumvesuviana train, stopping first at Herculaneum, then on to Naples. Herculaneum is, like Pompeii, a first-century AD city buried by the eruption of Vesuvius. Unlike Pompeii, much of the decorations to the houses and buildings have been left intact, due to its more recent discovery. Typical of what's there is this fresco from the building that housed the Augustali, cult devoted to the divinity of the Roman emperors: ... Monday saw us again head north around the bay on the Circumvesuviana train, stopping first at Herculaneum, then on to Naples.

Herculaneum is, like Pompeii, a first-century AD city buried by the eruption of Vesuvius. Unlike Pompeii, much of the decorations to the houses and buildings have been left intact, due to its more recent discovery. Typical of what's there is this fresco from the building that housed the Augustali, cult devoted to the divinity of the Roman emperors:

ercolano_augustali.jpg

On from Herculaneum, we continued to Naples, chaotic but beautiful city in Vesuvius' shadow. The main attraction was the National Archaeological Museum, which houses the treasures recovered from Pompeii, Herculaneum, and other local sites. Here's Allison with a statue of a pig from Pompeii:

allie_and_pig.jpg

After all that history, we went for something slightly more modern -- pizzas from Da Michele, serving up pizzas in Naples since 1873, and self-proclaimed 'original pizzeria.'

It was a long walk there from the museum...

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...but it was worth it:

da_michele.jpg

Herculaneum and Naples remains copyright of the author elefantstn, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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]]> Pompeii tag:travellerspoint.com,2006-07-09:/blog/?domain=the-millers&thisblog_entryid=11&entryid=16519 2006-07-09T08:19:22Z 2006-07-09T08:19:22Z First thing Sunday was an excursion to Pompeii, most famous of Vesuvius' victims. The crowds were not bad, given the day, date, and weather, but it's a pretty busy site nonetheless. Featured, then, is Debra, stuck going the wrong way to the top of the theater: And here are the fantastic frescoes from the Villa dei Misteri, just outside the ancient city walls: ... First thing Sunday was an excursion to Pompeii, most famous of Vesuvius' victims. The crowds were not bad, given the day, date, and weather, but it's a pretty busy site nonetheless.

Featured, then, is Debra, stuck going the wrong way to the top of the theater:

mom_wrongway.jpg

And here are the fantastic frescoes from the Villa dei Misteri, just outside the ancient city walls:

villa_dei_misteri.jpg

Pompeii remains copyright of the author elefantstn, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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]]> A Look Back tag:travellerspoint.com,2006-07-09:/blog/?domain=the-millers&thisblog_entryid=10&entryid=16517 2006-07-09T08:12:57Z 2006-07-09T08:12:57Z Four Millers are now home, and Julie and I are in Moiano, Umbria. Upcoming are photos and descriptions of our last week in Sorrento, overlooking the Bay of Naples. First, a view from our balcony: ... Four Millers are now home, and Julie and I are in Moiano, Umbria. Upcoming are photos and descriptions of our last week in Sorrento, overlooking the Bay of Naples. First, a view from our balcony:

piano_view.jpg

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]]> In Sorrento tag:travellerspoint.com,2006-07-04:/blog/?domain=the-millers&thisblog_entryid=9&entryid=16032 2006-07-04T11:07:39Z 2006-07-04T11:07:39Z We made it here after some messing around at train stations on Saturday, and since then have seen Pompeii, Herculaneum, and the National Museum in Naples. We've still got Paestum, Cuma, and Capri on the itinerary. Soon we should have some more pictures up to peruse. Have a happy and safe Fourth. ... We made it here after some messing around at train stations on Saturday, and since then have seen Pompeii, Herculaneum, and the National Museum in Naples. We've still got Paestum, Cuma, and Capri on the itinerary. Soon we should have some more pictures up to peruse.

Have a happy and safe Fourth.

In Sorrento remains copyright of the author elefantstn, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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]]> Leaving Rome tag:travellerspoint.com,2006-06-30:/blog/?domain=the-millers&thisblog_entryid=8&entryid=15744 2006-06-30T18:31:11Z 2006-06-30T18:31:11Z Catching a train for Sorrento tomorrow -- hopefully the internet access is as reliable there! Ciao ... Catching a train for Sorrento tomorrow -- hopefully the internet access is as reliable there!

Ciao

adam-allie-trastevere.jpg

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]]> Orvieto tag:travellerspoint.com,2006-06-30:/blog/?domain=the-millers&thisblog_entryid=7&entryid=15742 2006-06-30T18:24:06Z 2006-06-30T18:24:06Z Yesterday we got up, grabbed some pastries for breakfast, and then caught a train to Orvieto, in Umbria, north of Rome, for a visit to the ancient Etruscan hill town that is now the site of one of Italy's most beautiful cathedrals. Below, the Duomo, notable for its black and white stripes and colorful façade: The most interesting facet of the city is its three-thousand year old Etruscan heritage. The civic museum contains climate-controlled tomb paintings, discovered at the tom ... Yesterday we got up, grabbed some pastries for breakfast, and then caught a train to Orvieto, in Umbria, north of Rome, for a visit to the ancient Etruscan hill town that is now the site of one of Italy's most beautiful cathedrals.

Below, the Duomo, notable for its black and white stripes and colorful façade:

orvieto-duomo.jpg

The most interesting facet of the city is its three-thousand year old Etruscan heritage. The civic museum contains climate-controlled tomb paintings, discovered at the tombs just below the city. Here I am, standing in front of an Etruscan inscription at the entrance to one of these tombs:

josh-orvieto.jpg

Orvieto remains copyright of the author elefantstn, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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]]> Ostia Antica tag:travellerspoint.com,2006-06-30:/blog/?domain=the-millers&thisblog_entryid=6&entryid=15740 2006-06-30T18:19:16Z 2006-06-30T18:19:16Z Ostia Antica is the former port city of Rome, at the mouth of the Tiber 10 miles downstream. Due to the changing course of the river and the moving shoreline, Ostia died out centuries ago, leaving the city fairly intact when it was excavated. Above, you can see us at a taberna, an ancient bar/restaurant. Below, the Millers at the ancient mill -- this is the stone used to grind grain for flour. ... millers-taberna.jpg

Ostia Antica is the former port city of Rome, at the mouth of the Tiber 10 miles downstream. Due to the changing course of the river and the moving shoreline, Ostia died out centuries ago, leaving the city fairly intact when it was excavated. Above, you can see us at a taberna, an ancient bar/restaurant.

Below, the Millers at the ancient mill -- this is the stone used to grind grain for flour.

the-millers.jpg

Ostia Antica remains copyright of the author elefantstn, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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]]> Cooking Tonight tag:travellerspoint.com,2006-06-28:/blog/?domain=the-millers&thisblog_entryid=5&entryid=15602 2006-06-28T19:45:44Z 2006-06-28T19:45:44Z On the way back from Ostia Antica today (pictures, report tomorrow), we stopped in Trastevere to pick up ingredients for dinner. From Antica Caciara we grabbed not only a Tuscan fennel salami and Pugliese smoked mozzarella for lunch tomorrow, but penne, pecorino romano, eggs, and guanciale for dinner tonight: Thirty frustrating minutes in a small kitchen later, the Roman classic, penne alla carbonara: [img=http://www.travellerspoint ... On the way back from Ostia Antica today (pictures, report tomorrow), we stopped in Trastevere to pick up ingredients for dinner.

From Antica Caciara we grabbed not only a Tuscan fennel salami and Pugliese smoked mozzarella for lunch tomorrow, but penne, pecorino romano, eggs, and guanciale for dinner tonight:

guanciale.jpg

Thirty frustrating minutes in a small kitchen later, the Roman classic, penne alla carbonara:

carbonara.jpg

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]]> Pictures, Finally tag:travellerspoint.com,2006-06-28:/blog/?domain=the-millers&thisblog_entryid=4&entryid=15600 2006-06-28T19:37:20Z 2006-06-28T19:37:20Z Got the picture situation sorted out, so here we go... Allison at the Fontana di Trevi! Dave and Deb at the Pantheon! The non-Josh five climbed the dome of the Vatican in a scene reminiscent of Mastroiani and Ekberg, the result being: Here we test Julie's truth-telling capacity: [img=http://www.travellerspoint.com/photos/39823/ju ... Got the picture situation sorted out, so here we go...

Allison at the Fontana di Trevi!

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Dave and Deb at the Pantheon!

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The non-Josh five climbed the dome of the Vatican in a scene reminiscent of Mastroiani and Ekberg, the result being:

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Here we test Julie's truth-telling capacity:

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Finally, a typical family moment, at the Baths of Caracalla:

family-caracalla.jpg

Pictures, Finally remains copyright of the author elefantstn, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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]]> Long Day, Delicious Ending tag:travellerspoint.com,2006-06-27:/blog/?domain=the-millers&thisblog_entryid=3&entryid=15527 2006-06-27T21:12:37Z 2006-06-27T21:12:37Z I've been working out of Gambero Rosso's Roma guide for food so far, and with great success. I woke up earlier than everyone this morning, having crashed earlier last night from the jet lag, and hit up a bakery for an apple torte and some cookies for breakfast -- twice as much as we needed, actually, for just 7 euros. Today's litany of sites visited: [list] [*]Hadrian's Tomb / Castel Sant'Angelo [*]Ara Pacis (Altar of Augustan Peace) [*]Augustus' Mausoleum [*]St. John Lateran [*]Baths of Caracalla [*]Santa Maria ... I've been working out of Gambero Rosso's Roma guide for food so far, and with great success. I woke up earlier than everyone this morning, having crashed earlier last night from the jet lag, and hit up a bakery for an apple torte and some cookies for breakfast -- twice as much as we needed, actually, for just 7 euros.

Today's litany of sites visited:

  • Hadrian's Tomb / Castel Sant'Angelo
  • Ara Pacis (Altar of Augustan Peace)
  • Augustus' Mausoleum
  • St. John Lateran
  • Baths of Caracalla
  • Santa Maria at Trastevere

If you match these (in order) against a map, you can get an idea of the walking involved, though we took the Metro from the Piazza di Spagna to St. John Lateran.

After stopping home to shower (temps over 90) and rest, we headed to Trattoria degli Amici nearby, again out of the Gambero Rosso guide. Fantastic stuff, from the Tonarelli alle Vongole (square spaghetti with tiny sweet clams) to the Zuppa di Ceci (Julie's order of chickpea soup) to the Linguine alla Bolognese Allie and Dave had. Besides being delicious, the restaurant is also a project to help employ mentally disable people in the area, so all the courses we had brought out were for a good cause.

I put some pictures on the iPod to upload, but the computer here can't read it. So much for that. Tomorrow I will try to get that figured out and get some up here. Until then.

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]]> We're All Here tag:travellerspoint.com,2006-06-26:/blog/?domain=the-millers&thisblog_entryid=2&entryid=15455 2006-06-26T20:22:12Z 2006-06-26T20:22:12Z I made in this morning, a little more than 48 hours after the rest of the family, and it seems that Debra has been true to form, the family having so far been through... [list] [*]St. Peter's and the Vatican Museum [*]The Pantheon [*]The Spanish Steps [*]The Roman Forum [*]The Colosseum [*]The Palatine Hill [*]Church and Archaeological site at San Clemente [/list] Current gelato count stands at five cones - I personally have only had one, a very decent pistachio. We caught the end of the Italy-Australia World Cup Round of ... I made in this morning, a little more than 48 hours after the rest of the family, and it seems that Debra has been true to form, the family having so far been through...

  • St. Peter's and the Vatican Museum
  • The Pantheon
  • The Spanish Steps
  • The Roman Forum
  • The Colosseum
  • The Palatine Hill
  • Church and Archaeological site at San Clemente

Current gelato count stands at five cones - I personally have only had one, a very decent pistachio.

We caught the end of the Italy-Australia World Cup Round of 16 match back at the apartment today, with 10-man Italy (this keeps happening) winning on a Totti penalty kick in stoppage time. The city is in a correspondingly happy mood, with lots of flags and horn honking on evidence.

More to come tomorrow, including some pictures.

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]]> Itinerary tag:travellerspoint.com,2006-06-14:/blog/?domain=the-millers&thisblog_entryid=1&entryid=14407 2006-06-14T18:13:39Z 2006-06-14T18:13:39Z Welcome to the Millers' travel blog for our vacation to Italy in June and July 2006. We will be spending the week of June 24th-July 1 in Trastevere, Rome, and the week of July 1-8 in Sorrento, near Naples. ... Welcome to the Millers' travel blog for our vacation to Italy in June and July 2006. We will be spending the week of June 24th-July 1 in Trastevere, Rome, and the week of July 1-8 in Sorrento, near Naples.

Itinerary remains copyright of the author elefantstn, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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